Two centerpieces of French identity, wine and statism, survived Europeanization and globalization in the postwar era. In charting the rise of France's modern wine system, the Controlled Appellation of Origin (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée; AOC), this article explains how the wine industry and the state adjusted to economic integration. The AOC system has been commonly viewed as a protector of local traditions when, more important, it developed as an economic strategy to promote the interests of French winegrowers and the state in an increasingly globalized world. The system's success depended on the efforts of luxury wine producers, public health advocates, and state technocrats, who all invoked the “general interest” of consumers. This article inverts our understanding of the relationship between states and market integration to show how the Common Market and the world market actually reinforced state control over French vineyards, ultimately rebranding European wine production. Terroir gained widespread currency in the context of globalization.
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